Already, a month has passed since returning from Portland. Strangely, it seems as though the trip was just yesterday, but also eons ago. Eight glorious days spent with my favorite partner in crime, trying this urban paradise on for size. The City of Roses fit better than a well-worn favorite t-shirt. A t-shirt with an eco-friendly, vegetarian slogan no less, given the demographics of this progressive city.
The "green" vibe of Portland is quite well-known and in the world of vegetarians and vegans, the city is practically Mecca. I was quite curious to check out the city that consistently landed high on PETA's list of most vegetarian-friendly cities. Turns out, it IS all that... and a bag of (sea salt and cracked pepper kettle) chips.
Arriving from snowy, cold Minnesota, Portland was an oasis of greenery, lush with earthy moss. City parks at every turn were home to gorgeous fountains, and gigantic fern-covered trees. The light, intermittent rains were far from the oppressive rainstorms of the midwest, but instead felt refreshing and full of life. People were friendly, the accommodations clean and welcoming, the city easy to navigate. The streets were clean, and recycling and composting programs ran rampant. For the vegetarian, a deliciously dizzying array of options await.
It was immediately evident the larger population of veg-minded folks, just by glancing at the lists of restaurants and menus - or by walking down the street, seeing neon signs advertising Vegan Pizza! Grocery and convenience stores were rife with choices, and coffee shops always had soy milk on tap. One relaxing evening spent at Anna Banana's, I inquired about a smoothie and it's dairy content. The barista happily exclaimed he could easily make it with soy, rice, or hemp instead of the requisite dairy milk. One soy-acai smoothie, and one very happy veggie-girl. Even at an Irish pub, we were informed by the waitress which items contained chicken. A chicken quesadilla that arrived somewhat accidentally at our table at another pub, was quickly and very apologetically replaced - the same pub where a veggie burger was comped and several tasters of scotch and whiskey were generously poured. Clearly this is a waitstaff accustomed to happily serving the veggie crowd.
On one of my favorite excursions, we sought out Herbivore Clothing Co. The former vegetarian culture magazine and publisher turned clothing store was one of few must-sees on my list for the trip. Taking the bus across the river, we found ourselves in a shabby-chic neighborhood of hipsters, hippies and skinny, tattooed vegan freaks. Several dozen bicycles were parked outside on the block where Herbivore resides. Herbivore itself, albeit small, was a beautiful shop full of t-shirts, vegan accessories, and books. Being a follower of their magazine for several years, I felt like I was in the Disneyland of vegetarian culture, and purchased my lone souvenir of the trip - a bright pink Herbivore-PDX t-shirt.
If PDX is Veggie Land, then this 1200 block of Stark Street is its capitol. Herbivore sits sandwiched between Sweetpea Bakery - a delightful coffee shop serving all manner of cupcakes and other vegan treats, and the aptly-named Food Fight - an all-vegan grocer. Top it all off with a vegan-owned tattoo parlor on the corner. After perusing all the delectable goodies at Food Fight, we found our lunch - a spicy tempeh and carrot sandwich and a butternut squash tart - sweet, salty goodness! We enjoyed our feast from a couple of lawn chairs perched on the sidewalk where the people-watching was prime. With the sun warming our skin, this was the moment I knew we were "home." Surely, had there been an open apartment on that block, we may have signed the lease that afternoon. Upon finishing our meal, the grocer politely separated the remains into their respective recycling and compost bins behind the counter. Icing on the vegan cake.
No trip to Portland could possibly be complete, we soon found out, without a visit to Voodoo Donuts - the little donut shop with a big cult following. After a half an hour of waiting outside in a line that wrapped around the block, and being harrassed by a mirror-toting homeless schizophrenic, we arrived at the counter. A plethora of donuts with unique, creative flavors and cheeky names were displayed - and yes - they were all available in vegan versions! We couldn't wait to try our treats and spoiled our dinner by devouring a vegan chocolate glaze on the sidewalk outside. Later that evening, we shared the vegan grape ape - a purple-sprinkled behemoth that tasted like the artificially flavored candies of childhood. Not previously a donut fan, consider this girl converted.
So many other fine Portland delicacies were tasted over the course of the trip, including a giant mushroom-and-veggie burrito and comfort food at its finest: a creamy mac-n-cheese made with local Tillamook cheese and microbrewed stout. The trip was bookended by what I'm sure will become our new favorite Thai place, Peemkaew. Its small, but welcoming dining room was painted in cheerful saturated color, and bedecked with paper lanterns. The curries were spicy and delicious. On my last night there, alone, I returned to Peemkaew and ordered a specialty - pumpkin curry. Cubes of pumpkin, tofu, and red peppers in the sweet and spicy red coconut curry sauce. So good, I had the leftovers for breakfast the next morning. The trip was also soaked in plenty of the local beverages - pinot noirs and microwbrews were abundant and fantastic. Even more marvelous was the ability to buy decent wine and beer in grocery stores... and even convenience stores... even on a Sunday!
It was difficult to leave such a wondrous place, so full of good eats. But don't worry Portland, we'll be back soon enough. In July, these two vegetarians will be loading up the wagon, er, moving truck and heading west on the Oregon Trail. Somewhere my eight-year-old self is squealing in delight.
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